After a very changeable forecast for Sunday, the day dawned
fine and bright, the sun was out, the air clear and superb day's
fellwalking was in prospect.
Peter had organised an "A" walk for our group, which
involved a early start to get to Haweswater on the the far side
of the Lakes.
Summer water levels have been low so the fell paths should
be dry. A couple of stream crossings after recent rain were
Peter's only slight concern.

A quick stop at the Thirlmere Dam, on our way up the Mardale
Valley.

The classic view of Riggindale across the lake . . . technically
it includes all of our route today.
We'll walk to the wooded headland, up the ridge to High Street,
round to the left on the skyline to Mardale Ill Bell, then back
down the Small Water valley, seen centre behind the trees.

The Mob today . . . a full picture thanks to a kind fellow
walker who took the photo.
(left to right) Chris, Peter (our organiser) James,
Richard, Kathryn, Sue, Pippa and myself. In there too are Bailey
and Dougal.
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The old signpost at the end of the road
offers us three basic footpaths,
all of which start through the same gate by the parking
area.
* Longsleddale takes you left (south) on a green
track
(no longer open to vehicles.)
* Nan Bield Pass will be our return route,
* but we'll start on the shoreline path towards Bampton.
In the days of this sign, it seems that mountain
passes
were more as important than fell summits.
The sign was courtesy of Manchester Corporation Water
Works.
(Circa 1930's)
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On with the walk, eager to get going on this
fine day.
The temperatures are cool but the sun warming
and the visibility promises to be superb.

Haweswater lake levels have been low enough
to expose some of the old walls of the valley (that were flooded
by the reservoir)
but with a torrent of water like this entering
the lake, it won't be long before the water levels rise once
more.

Our route takes us above the fell wall, where
we can look down onto the exposed bed of the lake.

The route turns sharply behind the trees and
we start the main climb.

We nearly continued on around the lake on the
Bampton path, until Peter pointed out the lesser track heading
upward.
It was on these crags that Cumbria's remaining
eagles made a home, but the last bird, a male, hasn't been seen
for many years.
The O.S. Map reflects, or remembers their presence,
by naming the lower part of Rough Crag as Eagle Crag.

The 'last remaining' farm of the valley was
down below us, the site of which is now lower than normal water
level.
The old farmhouse was seen last in the late
1930's, when it disappeared beneath the water of the new lake.

The long distance clarity today was superb,
all the way over to the Pennines, half way to the east coast
of England.
The air has been washed clean by recent rains,
with fresh breezes flowing off the clean Atlantic, rather than
from the dusty continent to the south.

Climbing Rough Crag, gradually gaining height
and now leaving the valley and our cars far below.

"The ghost of Rough Crag" leads Richard
onward towards the next steep section of the path.

Ghost care not about refreshments, but we're
quite partial to a coffee break after our early start from Loweswater.
A sheltered, sunny and dry grassy bank suited
the purpose.

It also gave us our first close up view of Blea
Tarn, the classic corrie lake, held high in the embrace of High
Street and Mardale Ill Bell.
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Re-energised
we head on, climbing one short steep section after another. |
The top of the Rough
Crag Ridge is getting closer all the time. |

Unseen in the last photo, so a surprise to those
who haven't been here before . . . is the tarn at Caspel Gate.

The tarn is as shallow as Blea Tarn is deep
and once past the diminutive mapped feature we get a clear view
of Blea Tarn once again.
The gentle breeze gets twisted and turned and
causes swirls on the water, which shine with reflected light
from the midday sun.
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A view down
the length of Riggindale, all the way to Cross Fell
on the Pennines. |
More reflections, now
covering most of the Tarn, as we move further up the
ridge. |
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Nearly at
the top and our way ahead has been eased by the work
of the Path Fairies. |
The pitched path leads
us out onto the summit by a large cairn. |
Rough Crag has been a great climb . . . even
better today given the weather.

The ridge tops out on what is virtually the
middle of the summit plateau of High Street.
Two fellow walkers rest at the summit, one tending
to his feet, the other seemingly looking at the inside of his
eyelids.

A summit cairn like this just calls for a stop
to look around and to take a dozen pictures to stitch together
for the panorama.
Click here
or on the photo above for the resulting 360
degree annotated photo

We join the Roman Road across the top of High
Street, and head west in the direction of Galava Roman Fort
at Ambleside.

The mid point of the walk and the highest
point of the day . . . so a good spot to celebrate with the
aid of some lunch.
Thoughts of passing Romans fade as the wall
protects us from the cool but gentle breeze.

Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke lead away into
the distance with Windermere clearly in view.
Distant reflected sun now shines off Morcambe
Bay beyond Grange over Sands and, appropriately, the area
known as Silverdale.

Another turn onto a minor path as we diverge from the ancient
track and head off towards Mardale Ill Bell and the Nan Bield
Pass.
The flat top of Mardale's Harter Fell lies ahead.
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If you studied the map at the start really closely
you'll notice a spike along our recorded route,
where the Gps has tracked us leaving the main path
to better enjoy the views.
Here Sue looks down on the same Blea Tarn,
its colour now reflecting the blue/ white and greys
of the summer skies
rather than the sparkle of the sun that we saw earlier.
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However the view was rather nice and it deserved
another, this time a wider picture.
This short diversion over, we turned and rejoin
the main path.

A busy spot with the most people in one place
that we had seen all day.
There were walkers like ourselves, mountain
bikers, several fell runners and a party of late-launchers all
within this 50 yard stretch.

The sun reflects off a different lake now, this
time it's Kentmare Reservoir to the west of us, as we start
to drop down to the pass.

Wainwright was keen to point out that you can
see Blackpool Tower from the top of Coniston Old Man.
From here, with the naked eye, we could make
out Heysham Power Station and the Heysham Ferry heading off
down the channel, sailing towards Ireland.
With the photo blown up at home, you can just
see the famous tower to the right of the boat and see or imagine
the Snowdon peaks beyond the headland.
On the day and with the aid of binoculars the
sightings were clear.
- - - o o o - -
You can now buy a telephoto lens
that clips onto the back of a smart phone
and allows you to take a photographic record of the
sightings.
Sadly I haven't invested in one
and my efforts to place a binocular lens in its place
gave me a picture, but only that of the field walls
below.
My excuse was that the sun was blinding
and time didn't enable me to home in more accurately
as the group disappeared round the next bend without
me !
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To no avail, there's only one path ahead and no-one can get
lost in this weather.
Another brief stop as 'Small Water' and the bigger Haweswater
come into perfect astronomical alignment.

All paths lead to one of the larger bad weather
shelters in The Lakes, that being the one at the head of the
Nan Bield Pass.

Four square and a good shelter set against the
prevailing wind that no doubt rattles through the Pass at times.
Which way now . . . we'll take a left to Mardale.

A slow rocky and grass path takes us down towards
Small Water.

The map and guide book mention the shelters
that can be found alongside the path during this descent.
Peter on his Recce recently failed to notice
them . . . and I can understand why.

They are lot clearer to see when you look back
at them.
Again the entrances are all angled slightly
to protect from the wind.
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No-one really offers an explanation
as to the origins of the shelters.
They are mae out of the natural stone at the base
of the scree slope.
Obviously some strong people must have collaborated
to build them.
There's no great signs of mining in the area
unless the whole of the scree is residual from a
hidden quarry above.
Some a traveller could shelter in on a rough day
but as Dougal shows, they are not generous in their
proportions.
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Chris ad Pippa passing the shelters.

A ray of sun, caught through the lens of the
camera, highlights Sue and Dougal down by the water.

One of Peter's concerns after the recent rain,
was the river crossing at the exit from Small Water.
No matter, the water level was up but not sufficiently
to cause a problem.

The eye was drawn 'over the edge' towards Haweswater
and the valley below . . . comments were also made that the
cars still seem a long way off.
On the ground close to Peter are new plantings
of individual trees. We noted Juniper, Holly and Rowan amongst
them.
Hopefully this kick start of open woodland will
encourage more diversity, flora and fauna . . . and who knows,
the eagles may return one day ?

Beyond the crag the Small Water Beck cascades
over the rocks, heading for the valley below.
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It looked
even more impressive close up. |
Crossing through the
deer fence that surround this part of the valley. |

The area recently planted with trees has been
surrounded by a large deer fence, extending up six feet high
with two extra, angled top wires.
Comments were expressed that the fence seemed
to extend all the way up the fell side opposite, a major undertaking
for someone to build.
Presumably by the time the fence decays the
tree saplings will be well established and less susceptible
to damage.

The last stretch as Chris and Kathryn kindly
stop and turn for my photo . . . thankfully the car park is
looking an awful lot closer now.
This has been a full 'five-hour-plus' fell walk
through some stunning scenery, a type of walk I haven't undertaken
for quite some time.
Full marks to Peter who had delayed this walk
until the weather was better . . . it came up trumps today.
Technical note: Pictures taken
with my iPhone 11pro mobile phone camera.
Resized in Photoshop, and built
up on a Dreamweaver web builder.
This site best viewed with
. . . the extra sociability gained from today's group walk.
Go to Home Page
. . . © RmH . . . Email
me here
Previous
walk -
15th September 2025 - NT
Whitheaven Walk
A
previous time up here -
1st June 2013 - High
Street and Mardale Ill Bell or with the O.F.C.
- 31st July 2004 - Rough
Crag, a Wainwright and OFC walk
Next
walk -
24th September 2025 - Germany
to Scotland
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