My daughter is in Cumbria while her youngest does her Gold
Duke of Edinburgh Expedition in the higher Lakeland Fells.
Abi's first few days were atrocious weather but her group came
through with honours and enjoyed a glorious sunny last day to
finish their expedition.
That day Paula, also a D of E instructor but who wasn't allowed
to get involved, also fancied a nice fell walk, so it was to
Eskdale we ventured.
Someone's happy to be out walking . . . with
his daughter !
We started at Jubilee Bridge at the foot of
Hardknott Pass, at the head of Eskdale.
Parking for ten or so cars, on the wide if slightly
rough road side verges.
Parking at the foot of the steep hill meant
that we gained height rapidly from the start.
This was the first view looking west down Eskdale
towards the sea.
By avoiding the road and walking the various
footpaths, we soon come across the Roman Fort.
Someone we met on the way back, who did the
opposite and missed the fort completely !
The impressive walls of the fort benefited from
the lack of stone robbing for other local buildings due to the
isolated nature of the location.
When the fort was investigated and partially
restored, the archaeological team recovered and replaced a few
obvious wall stones back into their old positions.
Inside the fort the foundations of the many
of the buildings are still there to see.
We didn't linger too long but did walk across
the fort to enjoy the classic view of the Scafells from the
North West Gateway.
The north eastern exit took us out of the top
of the fort,
where we had the prospect ahead of Hard Knott's
Border End summit and the road snaking away, up and over Hardknott
Pass.
Rather than fight the bracken we headed across
to the tarmac and started up the next section of road.
Stopping to enjoy the view back mean we could
pace ourselves nicely during the climb.
Paula stops briefly with Dougal at the summit
cairn on the side of the road.
While we were there the classic "Mountain
Goat" tour bus climbed from the Duddon side of the pass.
To my great regret I totally failed to photograph
a guy separately following it up the road on a "Segway"
a two wheeled balancing scooter.
That would have been a great shot had I been
quick-witted enough to focus and press the shutter a second
time!
Paula and I set off on the off road part of
the climb, passing a cyclist who has been resting on a nearby
rock.
The path around the back of Border End can be
a little damp at times, as it follows a small stream up between
the crags.
The dry footed option was to climb slightly
out of the valley onto the drier high ground.
From up here you also get that wonderful view
north, much sooner than from the path below.
The top of Border End is quite undulating and
Dougal sits on one of the many summits,
for a photo looking west down Eskdale.
A perfect day for walking . . . with a great
view north to admire from the high ground.
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The previous
photo showed Paula walking the final hundred yards .
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. . . and I followed
on till we both found ourselves on the true summit. |
What a lovely place to stop and admire the view.
The passing shadows and bright local sunshine
highlighted a Swaledale Sheep who was looking down into Upper
Eskdale from an adjacent crag.
Odd stones on other high rocks around provided
foreground to the view of White Maiden and Caw Fell across the
Duddon Valley.
Similarly, if I moved around myself (couldn't
move the rock), I could enjoy a view of Wrynose Pass and the
distant Troutbeck Fells.
Time to be heading onward, passing this small
rocky pool, hardly a tarn for us but somewhere for Dougal to
get wet !
The path across the top from Border End was,
shall we say "undefined", as the direct path was missed
out on our initial summit.
The undulating, peaty ground held water (and
presumably carbon) beautifully. No doubt recent weather has
increased to the water level quite a bit.
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Even near
the Hard Knott summit there were pockets of damp ground
to cross. |
"Don't winge .
. . we have to cope with it every day" |
Summitting out on Hard Knott . . . and a new
"Wainwright Point" awarded to Paula.
Cheer up Dougal, you can have a point (and a
biscuit) as well if you want.
Next I had promised Paula a view of Eskdale
Needle, so all I had to do now was to find it . . .
The view towards Upper Eskdale with Lingcove
Bridge below the waterfall, just where the sunlight turns to
shadow.
'The Needle' is somewhere below us, along this
western edge of Hard Knott, but of course it's well hidden from
above.
We've circled, around and down from the summit,
till we were about level with the high ground that we had climbed
just a short while ago.
The Needle should be here somewhere !
We walked ten yards further to the right and
we suddenly had a clear view of the impressive rock . . . in
fact it was in the last picture but I didn't realise.
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Paula climbs
(part way) up the side of the obelisk. |
Viewed from the other
side after scrambling through the gap. |
We sat for a brief moment and whilst doing so,
noticed this tall yellow orchid (?) amongst the heather.
We've passed the point of no return and now
it's downhill all the way.
We leave the Needle behind as we traverse across
and down the side of the valley .
It's not surprising that the Needle isn't so
well known,
as it blends into the fell side and almost disappears
when viewed from below.
Rounding the corner of Border End we re-gain
our view of Eskdale and The Roman Fort, still some distance
below us.
A craggy descent, including some deep bracken
patches, brought us out on 'The Parade Ground' close to the
fort.
Back through the North East gateway into the
fort.
Another brief stop to soak up the atmosphere
of the place and read some of the signs.
The above was the Commandant's House but by
this time we had left through the fourth gateway, the old Main
Gate.
There's one more Roman structure to see as we
make our way to the road.
This was the old Bathhouse with it's plunge
pool, cool, warm and hot rooms. Apparently the furthest room
had the main fire and under floor heating.
The final round building would have been the
Sauna . . .
you can imagine the Roman soldiers sitting around
on wooden benches if you are suitably imaginative.
[ No wonder Eskdale is devoid of trees if in
the olden days they heated this large Bathhouse and Sauna with
timber fires.]
We sheepishly returned via the road, towards
the car parked a short distance below.
- - - o o o - - -
After a few really rough weather days
at least Paula and Abi (and her group)
have had a nice day to end their brief visit to The
Lakes.
We finished our walk today in the traditional manner
courtesy of The Woolpack Inn.
- - - o o - - -
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Technical note: Pictures taken
with my iPhone 11pro mobile phone camera.
Resized in Photoshop, and built
up on a Dreamweaver web builder.
This site best viewed with
. . . the prospect of two pints waiting at the end.
- - - o o o - - -
Go to Home Page
. . . © RmH . . . Email
me here
Previous
walk -
31st July 2024 - Glenderaterra
with Les Girls
A
previous time up here -
5th October
2008 Eskdale Falls and Hard
Knott
Next
walk -
22nd August 2024 - A
wet Buttermere Day
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