The ancient Crossthwaite Church stands on High Hill on the
northern outskirts of Keswick.
The Lorton
and Derwent Fells Local History Society had organised a
guided walk here today
so Loes and I take the opportunity to go along
and learn more about history of this important building.
"
Crosthwaite Church has a long history and it is thought
that Christians have worshipped on this site for nearly 1500
years.
This church is dedicated to St Kentigern,
also known as St Mungo in Scotland, who had been driven out
of Glasgow
and set up his cross in a clearing or Thwaite
in 553AD – hence the name Crosthwaite."
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Meet our guide today, Mr Mark Hutton.
He started his talk by offering the
thought that
to look at gravestones was not actually
morbid.
They don't just mark the final resting
place of loved ones.
They were meant to be read.
By recording the names of the people
and outlining basic facts about them
it keeps the memory of them alive,
giving those people virtual immortality.
To read memorials is therefore to
remember those that have gone before,
which is surely what they we designed
to do ?
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To understanding the inscriptions and carvings
we must also think about the times in which they were made.
Early graves were noteable by their large horizontal
tombs, but this later changed to vertical headstones.
One of the carvings (above) represents a skull
and is about overcoming death and entering the life ever after.
Vertical stones point the way to Heaven (and
presumably cost less) and the best surviving examples are made
of Cumbrian Slate.
This is the Cherry Stone, so called because
it remembers Joseph Cherry of Keswick.
It outlines him and his family, many of whom
died later than he did. Stones like this are sometimes
made later than the original burial,
perhaps when the family could afford it.
Large tombstones also allowed other names to be added later,
in order to link the family together.
The slate rock takes carving particularly well
and so this stone is still full of detail, with the tree of
life, old Father Time
and broken buildings representing the passage
of time itself . . . (note the intricate three dimensional carvings
of the scythe).
The detail was exquisite, but I guess the mason
must have been annoyed when someone pointed out that the
age of one of the children was wrong !
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More slate
memorials, every word still readable. |
Other have weathered
badly, but these may have originally been inside. |
The head with wings of an angel was often carved
to represents the age of the deceased.
The one on the wall at the back is for a much
younger child.
The Stonemason and carver of the best slate
stones is himself buried in the Churchyard.
The William Bromley family were famous stone
masons and the family business still exists in Keswick to this
day, albeit under different ownership.
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The Bromleys
were also famous for carving Celtic Memorials. |
This one has a particularly
noteable heritage. |
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" Her lies Hardwick Drummond Rawnsey
and his wife Edith."
Cannon Rawnsey was Vicar of Crossthwaite Church
for 34 years and was famous for being a politician
and
a founding member of The National Trust
" Canon
Rawnsley and his wife Edith also founded the Keswick
School
of Industrial Arts (KSIA), where she was thought
to be the driving force.
There are numerous examples of her designs and work
both in the church and outside."
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Another memorial
remembers Jonathan Otley
who died 1856 aged 90 years.
He was famous for being the author of
"A descriptive Guide to the English Lakes
and adjacent mountains."
with particular reference to the
" Botany, Mineralogy and Geology of the District
"
He was a fountain of local knowledge
and in his day, offered lectures and guided walks.
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The Church is also famous for being the final resting place
of another famous Keswick Resident.
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We followed Mark full circle around the graveyard
and close to the church came across another slate
memorial
this time to Robert Southey, one of the Lakeland
Poets.
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Robert
Southey was famous as a Poet Laureate
(from 1813 till his death in 1843)
but his talents extended further than that.
He was a geographer, historian, journalist and biographer.
A measure of his esteem worldwide can be guessed
at
by the small stone plaque alongside his tomb
noting that his grave was restored by the Brazilian
Government.
( he's thought to have written the first history
of their country).
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Uncertain about where to start your exploration .
. .
. . . a notice board entry in the foyer
outlines noteable graves and their positions for
you find them.
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We're back to the front of the Church
High on the south facing wall
An ancient 1602 slate sundial
which pre-dates the 'single hand' mechanical clock
seen on the Church's Bell Tower.
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After we had completed our walk around outside,
Mark took us into the church . . .
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Through
the ancient and very solid, wooden front door. |
. . . into what is a
much bigger church than first appeared. |
It was the Mother Church for the large part of north Cumbria,
hence its size.
With the wool and metal industries of Keswick, it was quite
a wealthy one too.
The East window has 19th century stained glass
depicting, amongst others, St Kentigern himself.
The chandeliers were made of copper, designed
and manufactured by Rawnsey's Keswick School of Industrial
Arts.
Likewise the ornate reredos tryptic at the
back of the alter, the white altar frontals, the pulpit, and
the church gates are all Keswick Industrial.
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The church was significantly modernised in 1844
partly with donations raised after Southey's death.
All the internal graves within the church were
re-interred outside
and the uneven floor re-laid.
[ Under-floor heating was also added at that time.]
The old idea of being buried inside the church
was to be closer to God
and also to prevent grave robbers or animals digging
up the deceased.
The only grave now left inside the main church,
close under the alter,
was that of a local benefactor Edward Stephenson,
Governor of Bengal.
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The oldest
stained glass in the church is that small, top fragment. |
Alabaster effigies
of Thomas Radcliffe and his wife Margaret. |
Mark pointed out the white marble effigy of Robert Southey,
with an inscription below, written by Wordsworth.
This is an additional memorial, we've already visited his
grave outside.
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Southey's Memorial plaque.
Another memorial on the adjacent wall
is to the Jacksons of Armboth Hall.
Those that looked at my Thirlmere
Walk back in March
may recognise the name of Mary Jackson
and of her husband, Count Ossalinsky.
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We returned to the back of the church, where the Church
organ dates from 1837.
It was modernised in 1920 in memory of those who died in
the First World War.
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A plaque close by also remembers the arrival of
electricity in the Church,
first switched on, on the 4th March 1900,
" the Sunday succeeding the relief of Ladysmith".
The first hydro electricity generated for the town
was apparently generated from the water power still
available
at the site of the original copper smelter and
works
at Forge Lane, below Low Brierly on the River Greta.
[Top of town near Travis Perkins today]
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At the back of the Church is an area known as the
Baptistry.
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In this are we found the ancient Font, used for
Baptisms.
The stone base has carvings that hark back to
the days of early Catholicism, if not even earlier
to Pagan times.
With the rise of Protestantism following Henry
VIII reformation,
many of the lower designs were vandalised by zealous
Protestants of the day.
The various faces of the Font have carved designs,
the one seen here on the right is of The Green
Man
representing new growth following on from death,
yet another indication in the belief of "Life
after Death".
(A larger photo is shown below)
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Look for the face of a man (central) and
the new growth in the form of trees, growing from his mouth.
One last treasure discovered by Mark and now normally
kept locked away
is a "Crystal Box" with a model of Crossthwaite
Church set within it.
The background to the "picture" is made up
of a collection of crystals and ores probably found by
the German Miners when working in the area.
This form of handy work art would have provided them
with a hobby when it was impossible to go underground
and do their mining work.
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Last one out please shut the door . . .
but before we do there's a strange piece of wood
in a hole in the wall.
Being nosey I pulled it out and found a sturdy
oak beam
that fitted across the inside of the door.
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The oak baton acts as an internal door lock, the wedge
on the string dropping in behind it to hold the door tightly
shut.
This, and the strength of the oak door would keep raiders
and vagabonds out and the people sheltering inside, safe
from attack.
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May I say a big than you to the History Society
and to Mark in particular, for such an interesting afternoon.
Thanks also to those that provided the group
with tea and refreshments afterwards in the adjacent School
Hall.
I will view any subsequent visits we make
to the Church in a totally new light.
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Technical note: Pictures taken
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