Our whistle stop tour of Wales has quite a number of 'whistle
stops' this time as we explore not only the scenery
but some of the "Little Railways of Wales" as we
head north and spend two nights in a farm-stay B&B in Snowdonia.
After a sunny drive north from Pembrokeshire,
we reach Machynlleth and travel inland to Dinas Mawddwy.
Here we have a two-night B&B booked, in
the Cwm Cywarch Valley close to the Aran Hills.
A farm stay it advertised and a farm stay it
was, with the small valley road passing between the barns and
the house.
Bryn Sion
Farm is a delightful location and had two guest bedrooms
as well as accommodation for our hosts.
It's been a long-ish drive north, so time to
feed the dogs now we've been welcomed and unpacked our travel
bags.
Bryn Sion is a working farm and no one was working
harder today than this Welsh Black mum who gave birth overnight.
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In the morning the table was laid with a full
spread, with cooked breakfast to follow.
A hearty breakfast will set us up for the day.
Chance for a drive around and see the sights
. . . starting with a car ride back down the River Dyfi Valley
to the coast.
Approaching "Aberdyfi" . . . in english,
"the Mouth of the Dovey" where the river enters the
sea.
After Aberdyfi the next town along is Towyn,
famed for it's industrial past and the famous Towyn-to-Talyllyn
Railway.
We cross the Welsh Coast main line railway as
it clings to the flat ground betwixt sea and mountain.
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The small town of Towyn is home to the first
preserved railway in Britain.
(the QR code takes you to the National
Transport Trust website)
The narrow gauge railway was used to bring the slate
from the Aberganolwyn Slate Quarries down to the
coast.
It was saved from closure in 1951 by a group of Midlands
enthusiasts.
The full Talyllyn
Railway website can be found here
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Our train today will be headed by the 1918 steam
loco 'No.6 Douglas', kitted out in RAF colours.
It was originally built over a hundred years
ago for the RAF Construction Corp in Southampton, hence the
colour scheme.
It's a full train of passengers today, courtesy
of a visiting MG Car Club rally.
A great line up of classic sports cars and one
seagull who seems to have photo-bombed the picture.
The Towyn Station, close to what is now the
west coast main line,
starts its narrow gauge journey through a dark,
square, rather modern road bridge at the back of the station.
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It passes
the railway workshops and is soon in open country. |
There are several trains
running to day, so we pause at a passing loop. |
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Like big kids, we pose for photos of each other
along the way.
The top of the preserved section of the line
for many years, was the Dolgoch Station.
The attraction locally were the Dolgoch Falls,
the gorge of which we crossed on the viaduct just before the
station.
However the line has been extended now towards
Aberganolwyn, the old mining village further up the valley.
Here the railway reaches the head of the old
mineral line at the Bryneglwys Slate Quarries.
The railway was part of a major expansion by
a group of Manchester Cotton Mill owners who wanted to diversify
into slate mining in the 1860's.
A fuller history of the railway is available
on their website here
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Here the
engine uncoupled . . . |
. . . and was then reversed
to the back of the train. |
This was the head of the old mineral railway of 1865 and
some of the old inclines can be seen beyond the track end.
To explore further on foot would have needed an earlier start
and a later train for our return.
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With the
engine at the rear we return to Dolgoch Station . .
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. . . where we (and
the train crew) enjoyed a short lunch break. |
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Off once again, back towards Towyn. |
The railway has an easy gradient all
the way, never more than 1 in 60. |
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At the passing loop we
paused at earlier . . . |
. . . we waited again as the "No.7
Tom Rolt" passes on the 'up line'. |
Back at Towyn we had time to visit their extensive railway
museum and grab a nice coffee before moving on.
Loes chooses the wrong car in the car park . . . our's over
the back there.
To give her her due, it was a rather nice 1980's Rolls Royce
Silver Shadow II ( number plate 1000 RR) from the Ipswich Transport
Museum.
Next we headed north around the coast, with lovely sea views
and of the high Welsh hills ahead.
Those on the left are Yr Eifl, the three peaks perhaps more
familiar from the old song which includes the line "Three
three the Rivals".
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Another "whistle stop" along the way
as we divert just a short distance from the main
road
into the village of Fairbourne.
Here's what they class as a 'miniature railway'
as opposed to 'narrow gauge'.
The railway connects the village to the Barmouth
Ferry
which crosses the river
at the mouth of the Mawdach Estuary.
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The railway started as a two foot gauge, horse-drawn tramway,
which was then converted to a 15 inch gauge steam railway
in 1916.
In 1986 it was completely rebuilt to a smaller 12.25 inch
gauge.
Despite it's small width of track bed, the engines and rolling
stock are still quite large.
Having just left the Talyllyn, we passed on a ride on this
one
but the train did catch us up as we parked out at the end
of the road for a walk.
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The railway passes through a small tunnel
and emerges on the other side
into the marram-grass-covered sand dunes of
the Fairbourne Spit
which has developed at the estuary of the River Mawdach.
The railway developed from the tramway
that was built to enlarge the village for the holiday
trade.
It also made access to Barmouth on the opposite shoreline
much easier.
After a rocky
history where it closed several times,
it was finally bought in 1995 and is now owned by
a preservation charity.
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The outer terminal which hosts a waiting room
for those that wish.
The even smaller gauge track is probably a six
inch gauge for miniature steam enthusiasts to run their locos.
Our short walk from the car took us to the end
of the spit
where we could see the main line, two-car diesel
train, crossing the viaduct.
The Ferry awaits those that wish to cross over
the water to town.
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At one point the track bed curved around in a loop
and headed back to Fairbourne
but obvious problems of wind blown sand
have rather hidden the line.
As this is an enthusiasts railway,
reliant on volunteers to be able to run,
presumably the effort to keep this section of the track
clear
was too much for the crews to manage.
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We closed our day in what you could class as
the northern part of Mid wales
with a car journey through the moorland hills
behind Dolgellau,
curving round in a big arc of minor roads till
we were heading south once again.
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Our route took us through the village of Llanuwchlyn
(and past the terminal of the Bala Lake Railway !)
and up over the mountain pass
known as Bwlch y Groes.
Here a modern commemorative stone
was laid in 14th September 1989
and reads . . .
"Sanctified by the Lord Bishop of Bangor,
it was installed by Canon Geraint Vaughan-Jones
on the Episcopal Pilgrimage
of the Festival of the Holy Hanging"
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Down the Bwlch and back to Bryn Sion Farm.
Dinner that night was at the Y
Llew Coch / The Red
Lion in Dinas Mawddwy.
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Time to say our thanks and goodbye's to Lyn Edwards and her
husband for a lovely visit to Bryn
Sion
We had a quick drive up to the top of Cwm Cywarch, just to
see what was to be seen locally.
One of the buildings seemed to be an old Church, now converted
for farm use.
The old phone box, though in poor state, still had a pay
phone installed . . . well, there's very little mobile signal
here !
There was however lots of activity near the top, as a helicopter
was buzzing about the valley.
It was taking stones up the hillside for the "Path Faries"
to rebuild the footpaths across the Aran Hills.
The head of the Cywarch Valley. . . you can see why it would
be quicker to deliver the stone by air.
Our car journey home was now underway . . .
but there's always time for a slight diversion to see the
old, now decommissioned, nuclear power station alongside Trawsfynydd
Lake.
Oh No . . . more railways !
Our route took us through the town of Porthmadoc, which is
the terminal of the famous Ffestiniog
Narrow Gauge Railway
Again there was no time to take a ride and the only train
we saw passed us as we were driving up.
You'll have to make do with the posters to give you a taste
of the attraction.
The town is also the southern terminal of Wales's
newest preserved railway, the Welsh
Highland
This journeys north from town all the way to
Caernarvon, on a high level route via Beddgelert and the lower
slopes of Snowdon.
It appears to have a limited weekly service
so plan ahead if you want to enjoy an excursion.
Our next planned appointment was with friends
in Warrington, close to the M6
so our route can now include a drive through
Snowdonia to show Loes the sights.
This is a view of Yr Aran, Llewydd and the darker
summit of Snowdon, as seen from the road to Beddgelert.
Aberglaslyn Pass and the track opposite is the
re-instated West Highland Railway.
The footpath has now been re-routed closer to
the river,
but as a lad I walked the old track and through
the tunnels whilst on holiday here with my parents.
Snowdon Summit, standing tall at 1085m or 3526
feet above sea level.
[ that beats Scafell Pike which comes in at
a mere 978m / 3178 ft.]
This valley, close to Beddgelert, hosts the
start of the Watkin Path up Snowdon.
Looking back at Llyn Gwynant, with Moel Hebog
in the distance.
We stopped at the viewpoint further up the valley
for an ice cream and a look at one of the classic views of Snowdon.
Another classic is the view back as we drive
past Llynau Mymbyr,
as we head towards the Plas y Brennen National
Mountain Centre and the village of Betws y Coed.
With a sandwich bought in Betws, we took the
A470 north and found a picnic area overlooking the town of Conwy
with views of Conway Castle and the rather intrusive
boxed in railway bridge that spans the Afon Conwy.
A brief stop at Culcheth near Warrington allowed
us to catch up with Loes's brother-in-law Alan and his partner
Joan,
then it was home via the M6 to the familiarity,
the peace and quiet of the Loweswater Valley.
I think we'll appreciate the rest after what
has been an enjoyable week full of everything you can imagine
!